Friday, March 23, 2012

Monday the 19th, We met up with L&S at 9:00 at the train station as we planned to travel to the Delta area to see the islands. This is the river delta for the Rio Plata which is the biggest (widest) river in the world. We did not know what to expect, but L&S had been here before and said we'd enjoy it. Oh how right they were. The train ride (two separate trains) took us to Tigre, a small town that had been written up in the NY Times for a street with many murals and brightly colored buildings. Unfortunately, most everything on the street was closed on Monday-Tuesday as the off season had begun. But we enjoyed the sights.

We strolled through town, picking up some pastries for a snack that we enjoyed while waiting for the river bus to take us to a town we selected that had a restaurant named Alphas. Our imagination conjured up good German food and strudel for dessert. We were let off at a dock with no name and we just followed the path for a ways and finally saw a sign for the restaurant. We walked on and finally arrived at a very German looking complex and had a fine meal.  We finished the day with a boat ride and train ride back to the City and then another fabulous dinner.

The next day we spent in BA.  L & S knew of a book store they like to visit that is housed in an old theater. Later that day we flew to Mendoza, the wine capital of Argentina.

Mendoza is a small community surrounded by agriculture, mostly grape vines and olive trees where many Italian immigrants settled since the Spanish conquest.  We walked around the town for the afternoon and had another fabulous meal for dinner.

The next day we went on a wine and olive oil factory tour.  It was interesting, but not really "our thing".  We did bring a bottle of Argentine olive oil.  
March 18 The next day we took the bus back to the airport and caught our flight, arriving at the early afternoon. our ride was waiting for us and took us to the apartments we rented. After a late lunch we walked to a nearby craft market and enjoyed the people watching. Nearby a few couples were doing tango exhibitions to the delight of the crowd. We met up with Larry and Susan for a late dinner at a "French" restaurant that had the menu in Spanish but only served Italian cuisine. It had been written up in L&S's tour book, but things had changed since the book was written. The meal was only adequate; but we had a good time none the less.
Saurday March 17 Iguazu Falls. What an incredible sight! since we arrived late in the day and the park entrance was high along with an early closing we decided to explore the town and put off seeing the falls until the next day The only real memorable thing about the town, which seems to exists only as a destination for tourists to the falls was a park and viewing location to see the confluence of the Parana and Iguazu rivers. From this location you can look across the river to Brazil. The hotel we stayed at was small - just 10 rooms, but the restaurant was very good and we enjoyed an al fresco dinner that way muey delicioso!

The next morning we got up early and had breakfast at 7:00 and caught an early bus to the National Park where the falls are located. It was a 20 minute ride with standing room only. The park is very well laid out and can accommodate very large crowds. Fortunately we were visiting in the shoulder season and the numbers were well below capacity. There are three separate trails to follow that take you to all of the component falls in the park. Since the heat of the day had yet to begin, we decided to take the more strenuous lower falls trail that involved many steps. It's called the lower trail because it follows closer to river level and allows you to view many of the falls from bottom, looking up.

The park contains many separate falls and the trails allow a good view of each of them. At the very end of the lower falls trail is a boat ramp (if you can call a two old tires tied up to some rocks a dock, where a park boat will take you to Ste Martin Island for a view of the two largest falls: Garantua and Devil's Throat. We waited for almost an hour for the boat operator to take us to the island, but left in frustration that he didn't follow the Park plan to shuttle passengers every 10 minutes back and forth. We were disappointed, but it did not spoil the magnificent views of the incredibly spectacular falls. From here we climbed up the steps to the and finished the return portion of the lower trail. We spent about two hours on this section of the Park. From here we ventured to the upper trail which takes you to the top of many of the falls. this trail is mostly level, but is more exposed to the weather (sunshine). We had a good view of the approach to the falls, but it did not allow you to see much of the falls themselves. We spent about an hour on this trail. being near lunch time, we decided to catch an in-laws train to take us back to the entrance area where there is a restaurant.

When we got on the train, it started taking us in the opposite direction we intended and we ended up at the beginning of the third trail, which offers a view of Gargantua. We decided to just go for it and postpone our lunch until after this final viewing. It turned out to be a very long walk along an elevated walkway across the river to the lip of the first big drop of Gargantua. What an amazing vantage point. We took many pictures finding viewing space among the many visitors. By the time we took the train back to the visitor center for lunch it was nearly 3:30 and Tricia was getting low blood sugar. We partook of an overpriced buffet in order to get her some food quickly. We took the bus back to town and walked to our hotel arriving about 5:00. We were very tired and rested when we got home. We finished off the day with another spectacular meal at our hotel restaurant eating al fresco on the deck. With the assistance of the hotel, we rearranged our flight back to NA to be earlier than originally planned. luckily, the airline made the change without making an additional charge.
March 16 This morning we got up and went out for a quick bite before heading to the airport. We flew to Iguazu and took a bus to Puerto Iguasu. It was quite hot and humid here, and very jungle like. I was constantly reminded of Sri Lanka. It ws too late to make it to the waterfalls as the ark closed at 6:00 and it was 3:00 and we still hadn't had lunch. We walked to town, about five blocks and had a light lunch in air conditioning. It was in the 90's with humidity to match. We took a taxi to a spot nearby where the Parana and Iguazu rivers meet. Across the rivers we could see Brazil and Paraguay. Back to town to pursue shops and stroll around before coming back to our quaint eco lodge. We read and I snoozed for awhile. We dined alfresco at our hotel on the patio, with a cool breeze. We both had pasta and decided we would eat here tomorrow night as well. There is great atmosphere and very good food with a varied menu.
March 15 After our late dinner we separated and when to our own apartments and agreed to meet the next morning at an iconic flower sculpture in one of the parks. This huge stainless steel flower opens and closes each day with the rise and setting of the sun... just like a real flower. After walking around the park and taking pictures we walked to L & S's apartment to see where they were staying. It is a lovely one bedroom arrangement attached to a marvelous old house in an upscale neighborhood filled with embassy residences and other impressive looking homes.

About a block or two away was the museum of modern art where we had lunch. From here we took a cab to Plaza de Maio where a craft fair is held each Thursday. Although small there was some interesting vendors and we enjoyed perusing their wares. We walked after that a long way to San Telmo neighborhood. We went into a fabulous shop filled with all kinds of crafts and artwork from fine artists. It is always a treat to see such creativity and skilled execution. Next we stopped at another cafe. Susan said sometimes she and Larry have 'five cafe' days. Larry loves coffee and sitting in cafes with ambiance. We also enjoy these rituals. This particular one had been around for over 100 years and the bar and wooden walls had been etched by various patrons carving their names or initials. Sitting by the window we could watch tango exhibitions in the park across the street.

 From here we walked to the old industrial area that the City had redeveloped into upscale restaurants and shops along the old wharf area. It was about a half mile long. An iconic cable span pedestrian bridge was built and the old cranes were preserved as architectural features to remind visitors of the former uses.

We then walked to an eco area that developed quite by accident as marshland was filled in with construction rubble and over time plants and animals began to establish themselves. The City then protected the area as a preserve and built a wide walkway for pedestrian viewers. We then caught a taxi and went to the Hollywood neighborhood for a dinner at another of L&S's favorite places... a vegetarian place that serves GREAT flavored foods. On the way our driver got involved in a minor accident and after trying to flee the scene, the other driver honked him over and we got out to walk the rest of the way. Despite this surprise event,we all enjoyed our entrees. We dropped L&S off at their place on the way home.

March 13 & 14, 2012

We left Portland early, rising at 4:30 to catch a 7:30 plane. We flew to DC where we had a 7 hr layover then flew to Buenos Aires arriving the following morning around 10:30. We checked into our apartment in the center of Ricoleto, a lovely neighborhood. After unpacking we walked to a nearby restaurant where we met Larry and Susan, friends from Portland who now live in the Columbia Gorge. Last summer when we were having diner with them, Larry announced that they were coming to Buenos ires (BA) in March. Ron turned green with envy and said he had wanted to ravel to S America since his teens. Larry said 'the come with us!' What an idea!! Ron and I thought about it and Ron said why not?' Then we decided if we were going that far we should see all that we could see and out rip expanded beyond BA to include Chile and Peru. I send countless hours on the computer exploring options and booked our trip.


Larry an Susan arrived at the restaurant within minutes of us. We sat outside under the largest tree you can imagine. The setting was lovely and the prices out of this world but we were all tired and decided to splurge. After lunch we waled around the neighborhood then separated and all went back to our apartments and took naps. Afterwards we took a cab to Palermo, another neat neighborhood where we walked around window shopping. Still tired we ducked into an outdoor coffee shop that served Illy brand, my absolute favorite. We all needed a pick me up. Our waitress spoke extra English with no accent. Before leaving I asked her if she was Argentinian. She said 'no she was from Portland OR'. We all hooted and told her we were too. We then proceeded to talk about a million different things. From there we walked to a restaurant that was a favorite of Larry and Susan's and had pizza that was delicious. BA has many fine resturants and we are lucky because L & S have been here four times,

BA is a beautiful city, surprisingly somewhat like Europe. The people of Argentina also looked much more like Europeans than I had anticipated. I had expected more indigenous Indians but Larry told us that almost all were killed by a variety of diseases brought by various European explorers and settlers. The city itself has many beautiful parks with lush landscaping and much art work. There are very wide boulevards and expansive sidewalks conducive for pedestrians. The commercial includes many upscale shops and open air cafes. Dining seems to be a local sport. The population seems relatively prosperous and we were told that although the disparity of incomes is increasing like in the US, the range is much narrower than we are currently used to. There are some wonderful buildings built at the beginnings of the 1900's and many beautiful balconies with ornate iron works, highly carved wooden doors, elaborate door knockers. Meal times seem to be later than what we are used to. Dinner restaurants don't begin to fill up until 8:30 or 9:00 PM. Lunch hours seem to be between 1:00 and 2:00 PM.

Sunday, March 11, 2012

Some time has passed since we've used this site; mostly while living in the Republic of Georgia for nearly two years from 2009 through most of 2011. Our next adventure is a five week trip to South America visiting Argentina including Buenos Aires, Iguazu Falls and Mendoza; then to Chile where we will see Santiago, Quisco, Valparaiso, Easter Island, and the Lake District; from there we go to Peru seeing Lima, Manchu Picchu, the Sacred Valley and other wonderful locations.