Monday, March 4, 2019

Enjoying just walking around and returning to prehistory

March 2
Today we ate our breakfast outside our apartment on the terrace.  We decided to have a Plan B for our shopping excursion. One reason we came to Oaxaca was to visit villages famous for black pottery and textiles. We have arranged for a knowledgeable guide to take us there Monday and Tuesday but he has requested we go Monday and Wednesday. Since we leave on Thursday, we thought we should have a plan in case we do not find what we are looking for. So today is dedicated to looking for shops that have the items we are seeking.



While wandering around town, popping in and out of shops we encountered another wedding. This one appeared to be a Mexican bride and an American groom, judging by the guests who trailed after the couple as the brass band played loudly.

At home, I had read an article on Oaxaca in the Sunday NY times and saved it for this trip. We read it again today. It mentioned a local restaurant that is popular with tourists and locals. The place is called La Popular. OMG, I had the BEST tacos of my life today. I ordered carnitas tacos and they came with some guacamole and pickled onions. The generous amount of pork was incredible; crispy yet moist and so flavorful. They were served on fresh tortillas made in the kitchen. I watched the woman making them on a flat grill. The tortilla was perfect, soft but slightly chewy. The couple next to us said they had eaten there the day before. They were European and didn’t know what they had ordered the day before but had taken a photo of their meal and ordered it again today. It was a tostada. They were ecstatic, calling it a flying salad because they could pick up the tostada and eat it while holding it. We determined we would return and I asked if they were open on Sunday, tomorrow. I was told yes but not until 1:00.
We waddled home and took our siesta. On the way, we spied some activity outside Santo Domingo Church.












 I fell asleep for over an hour. We went out before dinner to look at more shops we had read about. We realized we were still full from lunch so decided to just grab a salad. We passed a gallery and realized they had a small eatery inside so here we found the small salad we wanted. Fresh and tasty.


The real treat was the gallery. They featured an exhibit of Jacobo and Maria Angeles Ojeda. They are copal wood alebrijes artists. World class and unbelievable. Google their names and you can see their incredible work.  In addition, there were other exhibits including some unusual jewelry, beaded figures, and skulls. Is there anything more delightful than seeing fine art and crafts? It is amazing how creative some people are and it is always a pleasure to see.

We came home and relaxed, reading until bedtime.

March 3, 2019
It is Sunday and we had no plans today. After breakfast on the terrace, I read my emails and learned that tomorrow we would have a very long day if we tried to go to two craft villages and try to see Monte Alban. I quickly looked at our five-year-old tour book on Mexico and learned that there is a bus that leaves hourly to Monte Alban within a few blocks are where we are staying. I told Ron if we left within a few minutes we could catch the 9:30 bus and beat the heat. It worked; we got there less than ten minutes before it left. The trip took about 30 minutes, stopping to pick up a few vendors along the way. We climbed to 6200 feet in altitude to reach Monte Alban.

Layout of Mount Alban
This city from which the Zapotecs ruled Oaxaca’s Valles Centrales is one of Mexico’s most spectacular pre-Hispanic sites with temples, palaces, tall stepped platforms, an observatory, and ball court all arranged in an orderly fashion with wonderful 360-degree views over the city, surrounding valleys, and distant mountains. (Lonely Planet).
Add caption
big steps for little people





More steps
Monte Alban was first occupied around 500 BC. At its peak, there was a population of 25,000 between 350-700. Between 700 and 950, the place was abandoned. We walked through the entire site with its massive structures. The scope was impressive. After two hours we had seen everything there was to see except the museum. We went there and quickly viewed all the artifacts that were displayed. All the signage was in Spanish only so that aided us in going through quickly in order to catch our return bus to town. By now it was noon and really hot.


Massive stone slabs - How were they moved?
Depictions of castrated captured leaders




More captured leaders


wildlife


We decided to return to La Popular for lunch from the bus drop off. We arrived a few minutes before 1:00 but we were bushed from the walk in the heat. We sat on a step waiting for them to open. A truck drove up and the driver started unloading beer. The driver made multiple trips and went through a side door. After he finished, I walked to the side door to inquire when they would open since it was now about 10 minutes after 1:00. The driver was the owner and told us they opened at 2:00 on Sunday but they are open daily at 9:30-midnight. We were so tired and hungry we decided to go to another place for lunch and return to La Popular for dinner.


In a few short blocks, we went to Los Danzantes, ‘The Dancers’. This restaurant also had been recommended in the article from the Times. What a treat. The décor and ambiance were terrific and the food was delicious. We didn’t want a heavy meal so we split a good salad with hearts of palm, fresh greens, pickled onions in beet juice and avocados on the side for me. Ron had tortilla soup and I had the best black bean pureed soup imaginable. The blue corn tortillas were a real treat along with the sauces and ginger chili bread. What great food they have here.

Back at our apartment we stripped to our undies and sat in bed reading and writing with the fan going on full blast. We left for our second try for a meal at La Popular at 6:00. The place was filled with locals. I think there was one other couple who were gringos. We each had a shrimp cocktail for dinner. It was served in a tall glass like what used to be used for ice cream sodas back in the day of drug store lunch counters. We lost count of how many shrimps were in the glass. The sauce was liquid with minced onions and cilantro and wonderful spices and flavors. I could taste what I assumed was Woostershire sauce. Whatever it was it was fantastic.

We strolled home in the cool night breeze around 7:30. As we passed through the Zocalo it was even more crowded and animated tonight. The vendors were roaming through the crowds and having success at selling all manner of items, the music was playing and folks were dancing. Kids had balloons and were eating melting ice cream. It made me smile seeing so many having a good time with family and friends.

After we got home, we watched Free Solo, a documentary about Alex Honnold who climbed El Capitan in Yosemite Park without ropes. This was a 3000-foot climb! It was terrifying to watch. My idea of a thrill is traveling to Mexico!


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